The September Giveaway is a really nice gun maintenance kit from Molecular Advantage. MOA makes a super high tech lubricant formula unlike any other. This is space-age technology. If you like to use grease on your firearms then this is the best there is.
How To Enter: Send an email to giveaway(at)guncleaningtips(dot)com with September Giveaway in the subject line and your name in the body or comment on this post with your name. Only U.S.A. residents may enter in this drawing.
Here is the MOA gun oil (larger one) and gun grease in easy t apply syringes.
Here’s the other components: Gun Conditioning Oil (on the right), Oil and Grease Remover, cotton tip applicators, nylon general purpose brush and gun cleaning rags.
Ballistol CLP is a very popular product among gun enthusiasts. It is a great lubricant and protectant but does it clean fouling well?
Let’s put Ballistol CLP to the test.
…Ballistol CLP vs Burnt on gun powder residue
Here’s the gun cleaner test setup. Metal plate to burn powder on and Ballistol CLP to clean with. I’ll use some H4831 smokeless powder for the test.
I applied a thin film of Ballistol CLP to the metal surface. Now I’ll pour some H4831 smokeless powder on top.
This is about 50 grains of H4831. I’ll ignite this charge and then burn a 2nd 50 grain charge.
Here’s the burn.
Here’s the mess (burnt powder residue) after the 2nd powder burn. Let’s see how easy it’ll be to clean.
I sprayed a liberal amount of Ballistol on top of the powder residue and let it soak for 10 minutes. Let’s see if it wipes clean.
Beautiful!!! The powder residue wiped/slid off very easily. Ballistol loosened the fouling, making it easy to remove. Very Nice. This is just one of 2 CLP’s that actually removed the residue easily. Most gun CLP do not clean very well.
Conclusion: Ballistol is an amazing product. It lubricates, protects and cleans very well PLUS it will clean/protect firearms that have used corrosive ammo. If you want to try Ballistol, here is a link to buy it online…Ballistol CLP at Amazon.com
M-Pro7 Gun Cleaner is awesome for cleaning carbon, powder residue and other fouling but what about M-Pro7 CLP?
Does the M-Pro7 CLP clean as well as the Gun Cleaner?
Let’s do a test and see what happens.
Here the test setup….metal bar to burn powder on and some H4831 Smokeless Powder. First I apply the M-Pro7 CLP to the surface as you would with any firearm. Then I’ll pour about 50 grains of H4831 on top of the metal surface and ignite it…not once but twice.
Here’s the test surface with a liberal amount of CLP. I’ll use several patches to evenly spread the CLP and then wipe the excess off.
Here’s the powder charge.
Here’s the ignition…now let’s see the mess that’s left over to clean.
Here’s the burnt powder residue. It’s tough to remove without a good gun cleaner.
Now I’l spray some M-Pro7 CLP on top and let it soak for 10 minutes and then try to wipe the area clean.
Here are the results…the fouling wiped off very easily. The M-Pro7 CLP soaked into the carbon fouling and loosened it, making it easy to remove.
Conclusion: M-Pro7 CLP was an awesome product. It is no longer made but you can still buy the M-Pro7 Gun Cleaner and the M-Pro7 Gun Oil LPX. Both are excellent. Here’s a link to get some…M-Pro7 Gun Cleaning Products at Amazon.com
Can you use ordinary household cleaners to clean guns?
How about Simple Green?
Let’s try it on some burnt on powder residue and see what happens.
Here’s the simple green and the test materials – H4831 smokeless powder and a flat metal surface.
Let’s get started.
Here’s about 50 grains of H4831 smokeless powder. I’ll ignite it and then pour out another 50 grains for a 2nd burn.
Here’s the mess….burnt on powder fouling. I’m going to spray it down with the Simple Green and then let it soak for 10 minutes.
…soaking for 10 minutes.
As you can see the fouling wiped off easily without scrubbing or brushing. The Simple Green cleaner soaked through/penetrated the fouling and loosened it, making it easy to remove.
There is some discoloration still on the metal surface but the tough carbon fouling is gone. Simple Green is a very effective cleaner. I use it around the house for everything from cars to tile floor grout. It’s safe and non-toxic without a strong smell.
YES…you can use it on firearms, just remember to lubricate everything after cleaning. Simple Green will remove all oils and lubricants.
Here’s a link if you are interested in Simple Green….Simple Green Cleaner at Amazon.com
G96 CLP Synthetic Oil is a great lubricant and protectant but does it CLEAN?
Let’s find out by putting it to a test.
I’ll burn some smokeless powder and see if it cleans it easily.
Here is the test surface, cleaning patches and G96 CLP Synthetic Oil. I’ll put a thin film of oil on the surface first and then burn some powder on top.
Now let’s add some smokeless powder and let it burn.
…50 grains of H4831 smokeless powder. Now let’s burn it!
Here’s the messy powder residue. It is pretty hard to remove. Let’s try to wipe it clean without any additional G96 CLP Oil. I want to find out if the oil prevents fouling from sticking to the metal.
Amazing how a good synthetic oil will stop carbon from bonding to a metal surface. The majority of the fouling wipes off fairly easily.
The thick carbon fouling wiped off but there is still some discoloration left that did not wipe off. It could possibly be burnt oil. G96 CLP was not able to totally clean the surface.
Conclusion: G96 CLP Synthetic Oil is a good lubricant and protectant but it’s cleaning abilities are lacking. It does however prevent fouling from adhering to metal surfaces. If you want to give G96 CLP a try here is a link to buy it online at a discount…G96 CLP Synthetic Oil at Amazon.com
Rem Oil is a pretty good lubricant but can you use it to clean your gun?
Let’s see if Rem Oil can prevent and/or remove burnt on powder residue.
Here’s the test setup…metal base/bar and Rem Oil. I’ll apply the Rem oil to the metal surface and then add about 50 grains of smokeless powder and ignite it…Twice. Then I’ll see if the residue/fouling can be removed easily.
Here’s the Rem Oil on the test surface. I’ll spread it evenly with a few dry patches.
Here’s the baked on powder residue after 2 burns. I’ll try to wipe it off with just a few dry patches.
It wasn’t easy to wipe clean but it did come off fairly easily. So Rem Oil did stop the powder residue/fouling from bonding to the metal surface. It does make it easier to clean fouling.
Let’s add some Rem Oil on top and let it soak for 10 minutes and see what happens.
Not bad…Rem Oil is a pretty good product. It’s very slippery and does prevent fouling from adhering to metal surfaces. I wouldn’t call it a gun cleaner though. But I do like it!!
If you want to try some out, here is a link….Remington Rem Oil at Amazon.com
FrogLube CLP is a hugely popular CLP but does it clean carbon buildup and powder fouling?
Let’s put FrogLube CLP to a cleaning test…with some nasty powder fouling
Here it is…FrogLube CLP and my metal test plate or bar. I’ll apply the FrogLube CLP to the metal bar and then burn some smokeless powder on top of it.
I use a few patches to evenly spread the FrogLube CLP onto the metal bar. Then I add about 50 grains of H4831 smokeless powder and ignite it. Then I do this a 2nd time.
Here is the nasty fouling mess. Let’s see if it can be wiped off without any additional CLP. Maybe the pre-treatment of FrogLube will prevent the fouling from sticking to the metal? Let’s try to wipe it clean with just a few patches.
NOPE…it’s not wiping off easily and it took some effort to clean that small area. I’m going to add some FrogLube CLP on top of the fouling and wait 10 minutes.
Still No Go…for FrogLube CLP. I scrubbed the area with several patches and it still did not clean very well. The cooked on fouling is not loosened or removed with FrogLube CLP…even after soaking for 10 minutes.
Conclusion: FrogLube CLP is an Awesome Lubricant and Protectant BUT it’s not a good cleaner.
I had some leftover powder fouling that wasn’t cleaned after a previous gun cleaner test so I wanted to take advantage of the situation and try another CLP.
Does BreakFree CLP clean carbon fouling easily?
Let’s put it to a test….
OK…here’s the mess and the challenger….BreakFree CLP vs burnt on powder fouling/residue. I’m going to apply the BreakFree very liberally onto the fouling and let it soak for 10 minutes and then attempt to wipe it clean.
Here’s the carbon mess with the BreakFree CLP. Now let’s try to wipe it clean.
Well….some of the carbon came off but not much. I scrubbed the fouling with several patches and more BreakFree CLP but it’s not coming off easily. If you enjoy scrubbing, then BreakFree CLP might be a good choice for you.
Conclusion: BreakFree CLP is a good lubricant and protectant but it certainly falls short on cleaning.
Weapon Shield CLP is an awesome lubricant and protectant but how well does it clean powder residue and fouling?
Let’s put Weapon Shield CLP to a cleaning test.
Weapon Shield CLP is applied liberally and then wiped to remove excess CLP. Now let’s add some smokeless powder.
I use about 50 grains of H4831…which is a pretty slow burner.
Here’s the first burn. I do it twice to get some good hard fouling/residue.
Here’s the results of 2 powder burns. It’s pretty nasty. Now let’s try to wipe it clean with no additional CLP.
I was able to wipe a center line clean but it took some pressure. It was not an easy wipe. The Weapon Shield CLP did provide a barrier that stopped the fouling from bonding to the metal. Now let’s add some Weapon Shield on top and let it soak for 10 minutes. This will test it’s cleaning abilities
This is after a 10 minute soak. It did not wipe clean. I scrubbed with several patches but the fouling would not come off.
Conclusion: Weapon Shield is an excellent lubricant and protectant but it lacks as a gun cleaner. So far in my Gun Cleaner Tests, non of the CLP products were good cleaners.
Otis Bio CLP is an excellent lubricant and protectant but how well does it clean powder fouling/residue?
Let’s conduct a test with some H4831 smokeless powder and a metal bar.
Here’s the equipment.
I’ll apply the Otis Bio CLP to the metal surface first, to see if it creates a barrier against the fouling. In theory, it should make the fouling easier to remove.
Now lets add some powder on top of the Bio CLP treated metal bar.
Here’s the H4831 powder charge ready to burn. I add a second charge afterwards and ignite it too.
Now let’s see what kind of fouling is left over.
Burnt on and bonded to the metal surface. Now lets try to wipe it clean without any additional CLP.
OK…it’s not wiping clean. Let’s try adding some BIO CLP on top of the fouling and then let it soak for 10 minutes.
After 10 minutes…it still not wiping clean. I rub the area briskly but it’s not coming off too easily.
Let me show you what a good gun cleaner will do.
Here’s the leftover mess. I apply some G96 Firearm Cleaner Degreaser to the area and wait 10 minutes.
Now that’s a gun cleaner…the fouling/residue wipes easily leaving a very clean and spotless surface.
Archoil AR4200 is an excellent lubricant and protectant but how well does it clean?
Let’s put it to a test.
Let’s see how well it prevents and removes burnt on smokeless powder residue.
I’ll treat the metal bar with AR4200 before I burn the powder to see if it stops the powder residue from sticking.
Here’s the Archoil AR4200 and the pre-treatment.
I spread it evenly with a few patches.
I’m using H4831 smokeless powder for the test.
Here’s a 50 grain charge ready to burn.
Here’s the first burn. I do it twice.
Here is the burnt on powder residue. Now let’s see if I can wipe it clean without any gun cleaner.
I was able to remove the fouling/residue with just a clean patch. It was not easy and took some force but AR4200 does provide a barrier against the fouling. Now lets add some Archoil on top and see if it removes it easily.
I applied a liberal amount of AR4200 and then let it soak for 10 minutes. It did not loosen the fouling very much. It was difficult to remove. You can see 2 areas that will not wipe clean and might need a brush.
Conclusion: Archoil AR4200 CLP is a very good lubricant and protectant but not very effective as a gun cleaner.